During a visit to Singapore last summer, I ate at the much talked about Cheek by Jowl, a couple of times. Run by the husband and wife team of chef Rishi Naleendra and restaurant manager Manuela Toniolo, I really enjoyed the ingredient-focused contemporary "Modern Australian" food in the casual setting, but what I enjoyed more was talking with Rishi.
In conversation with an animated Rishi
Originally from Sri Lanka, Rishi moved to Australia and worked the kitchens of Yellow and Tetsuya's in Sydney, before moving to Singapore. Masterful in the kitchen, in conversation Rishi was earnest, engaging, and thoughtful; I truly enjoyed our philosophical discussions, which I won't share here. May that create some intrigue.
South Australian oyster, Smoked Tomato Granita
Smoked Mackerel, Horseradish, Pickles, Green Pea Juice
Roasted Quail, Chestnut, Mushroom, Mint
“Honestly, it’s not even the food. It’s not work, it’s just having this — working side-by-side (Manuela). We’ve been together for over 11 years and this just feels good.”
Barramundi, Leek, Bonito Butter, Caramelized Onion
Slow Cooked Pork Belly, Charred Scallion, Tarragon, Pig Ears
Cheek by Jowl is at 21 Boon Tat St, Singapore 069620, a few meters from the Telok Ayer station on the Downtown (DT) line.
