Wines with Premshree: 2001 Domaine Robert Chevillon "Les Saint-Georges", Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru

Nuit Saint-Georges is one of the main wine-growing regions in the Côte de Nuits commune, part of the Côte d'Or. Les Saint-Georges is one of the bigger premier cru vineyards, located at the western and southern edge of the 1er cru belt in the commune. The appellation has no grand crus.

Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon manage the domaine named after their father Robert, practicing lutte raisonée, a pragmatic viticulture technique with use of chemicals only when absolutely necessary. They own several 1er cru designated vineyards, including Cailles, Les Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges — vineyards that many would contend are grand cru worthy. The average age of the vines on their Les Saint-Georges parcel is around 80 years.

One of the best ways to get a sense of Burgundy's winde-ranging potentialities is a tasting where you control for as many variables as possible, varying maybe one or two. I got to do just that during a Burgundy wine tasting of a private collection at Brooklyn Wine Exchange. We tasted three wines from the domaine: 2001 Les Vaucrains 1er cru, 2001 Les Saint-Georges 1er cru, and 2004 Les Vaucrains 1er cru. The 2001 Les Vaucrains had decent minerality and relatively harsh tannins; the 2004 Les Vaucrains felt more refined: an orange-red pour, earthy nose, some salinity and notes of berries on the palate, and smoother tannins.

The Les Saint-Georges was my favorite. Very well-rounded, good minerality holding layers of forest berries and cherries, with smooth, silky tannins and a buttery finish. A beautiful, elegant wine.