Nuit Saint-Georges is one of the main wine-growing regions in the Côte de Nuits commune, part of the Côte d'Or. Les Saint-Georges is one of the bigger premier cru vineyards, located at the western and southern edge of the 1^er cru belt in the commune. The appellation has no grand crus.

Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon manage the domaine named after their father Robert, practicing lutte raisonée, a pragmatic viticulture technique with use of chemicals only when absolutely necessary. They own several 1^er cru designated vineyards, including Cailles, Les Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges — vineyards that many would contend are grand cru worthy. The average age of the vines on their Les Saint-Georges parcel is around 80 years.

One of the best ways to get a sense of Burgundy's winde-ranging potentialities is a tasting where you control for as many variables as possible, varying maybe one or two. I got to do just that during a Burgundy wine tasting of a private collection at Brooklyn Wine Exchange. We tasted three wines from the domaine: 2001 Les Vaucrains 1^er cru, 2001 Les Saint-Georges 1^er cru, and 2004 Les Vaucrains 1^er cru. The 2001 Les Vaucrains had decent minerality and relatively harsh tannins; the 2004 Les Vaucrains felt more refined: an orange-red pour, earthy nose, some salinity and notes of berries on the palate, and smoother tannins.

The Les Saint-Georges was my favorite. Very well-rounded, good minerality holding layers of forest berries and cherries, with smooth, silky tannins and a buttery finish. A beautiful, elegant wine.